WHERE TO SKI
With over 600km of velvety pistes Les Trois Vallées is the world’s largest ski area, and the biggest boast over jugs of Mutzig is skiing all three valleys in one day (start early, bring snacks). Pros head to black run Jockeys in Courchevel with its heart-pumping descent, it’s guaranteed fresh powder after a snow dump. For scenic cruising, the long blue run Creux from the very top of the Saulire peak is one to hit in the morning - it can be bumpy later - while Combe de Vallon has solid views. If the squiggles of the ski map are too much to decode, nab ruggedly bearded local instructor Alain Encinas, through Skills Courchevel, who surfs Biarritz in summer and skis the three valleys in the winter - there’s not a corner he hasn’t carved. Or unclip and try nighttime tobogganing from the top of the Combes chairlift (toasted marshmallows await at the bottom), a wildlife -spotting snow shoe walk or horse drawn sleigh rides around the pine-ringed Lac de Tueda